EQUESTRIENNE STYLE

There is something vigorously aristocratic about riding breeches and muddy riding boots.  Hermes even turned it into a theme for their Spring 2011 collection.

Hermes Spring 2011

I was wearing out my old knee highs, so I kept looking around for riding style boots with just a little bit more oomph.   I happened upon these riding boots with attitude -- laced up to the knee, metal zippers on either side of it, and sinewy seams along the back.  They are now an everyday favorite!  Skinny jeans and dresses take equal notice.  I walk with a bit of a swagger.

This is for those who enjoy a dose of humor with their outfit.

Rosegold Olwen boot

Pair them with skinny pants and a tailored, military-style jacket to feel the charge of the Cavalry

Derek Lam military jacket

Or give a structured tunic dress some edge.

Marc by Marc Jacobs, Fall 2008

Or simply throw on your puffy jacket.  I can see Alexa Chung wearing something like this, perhaps with her signature short shorts.

Moncler fur-hood jacket

The days get sunnier and warmer here in California.  So enjoy the boot weather before pedicure season.

PUDDLE JUMPERS

Winter in the West Coast typically means rain, rain, and more rain.

Look at the little kids in wellies with matching raincoats.  Adults who refuse to be outdone can also splash around.  The classic standard of the well-bred puddle jumper has always been the Hunter Wellington boot.  For those who want added panache, Hunter has the Jimmy Choo collaboration boot in croco-embossed rubber!

Jimmy Choo & Hunter crocodile-embossed rain boots

Another innovation in rain/snow style last year was Tommy Hilfiger's high-heeled duck boots.  These look great with knit socks slouching over them.  Hilfiger also made over-the-knee versions (which are over-the-top, unless you are in flood zones).

Tommy Hilfiger high-heeled duck boots

For the rest of us who don't want to spend much on rubber gear, you can score some fun printed alternatives from eBay, like this leopard spot wedge heeled rain boot.

leopard spot wedge heeled rain boot from eBay

Interestingly, out of all these options, the one that gets the Kid Nod of Approval are the whimsical eBay finds!

TAILORED TROUSERS

Marc Jacobs
Fall 2010

Trousers were popular in many designer's Fall/Winter Collections this year.  Some harked back to a classic, Charlie Girl look of the '70s.  No wonder -- it is flattering and looks confident.  It puts women back in the mood when everything was possible -- corner office plus a nightlife!  That was before recessions, lay offs, maybe giving up jobs to raise children (for some, this can be a positive).

Charlie Revlon perfume ad from the '70s
with Shelley Hack

Lauren Hutton, 40 years later, in Tom Ford's Spring 2011 collection looks even better than her Charlie Girl days.

Lauren Hutton modeling
Tom Ford's Spring 2011 collection
from Harper's Bazaar

Pulling off a trouser look can be tricky.  Women's physiques morph as they age, particularly after childbirth.  Tops and dresses from single days might still fit.  Not so for old trousers!

Consequently, the hunt for perfect pants can be as discouraging as swimsuit shopping.  Unless you have a great tailor, better to go to a trusted boutique or department store where you can try on several sizes and styles.  Save the bargain hunting on eBay for the other stuff instead.

Chloe Fall 2010
high-waisted, wide leg slacks

For curvy-hipped women, the most becoming shapes tend to be flat front slacks that fall straight or slightly wide.  Boot cut trousers also have a balancing effect.

Narrow-hipped women can create the illusion of hips with pleats.  Or, they can take advantage of their boyish shapes and celebrate it in slim pants.  I love this minimal look too.

Celine Fall 2010
cropped slim pants

Now let's talk about pant length.

Crucial: always have it hemmed to the pair of shoes you will wear it with!  Nothing mars the image of a great pair of pants more than falling short of your high heels, or sweeping the floor in your flats.

For a long and lean look on slacks, the hem should fall to the top of your shoe vamp.  I like mine about an inch from the ground in the back with a soft "break" in front.  The tips of your shoes should be visible but not your skin if you are in pumps.  Only cropped slim pants look good above the ankle.  Some trends deliberately go against these "rules", but in general, they only look great on models.

STRUTTING INTO THIS DECADE

Happy New Year!

Along with our resolutions, we reflect on this decade's style. What still looks modern from last decade and what should we retire?

KEEP ON WEARING: Platform Sandals and Booties 

Even clog bottoms, as Chanel surprisingly showed the fashion world last spring.  Ankle to mid-calf platforms still modernize any outfit.

Chloe, beige clog-bottom sandals

Balenciaga
open-toed, platform mid-calf boots

STORE OR DONATE: Uggs and Crocs 

Unless you're a kid.  Okay, perhaps I never quite got Ugly Chic.  (I swear I did not coin that term --fashion rags over 5 years ago did.) I understood Punk, Goth, and Grunge as personal style expressions and oddly artistic.  Yet, the classic Ugg boot and Crocs struck me as utilitarian, not Statements.

Classic Short Ugg boots

Crocs

KEEP ON WEARING: Tailored silhouettes 


Runway Minimalism last year influenced the return to a simpler shape and form.  Folds, drapes and some embellishment in the fabric can still feel modern, but bows, ruffles and studs get a rest.

Burberry Prorsum silk dress with intricate twists

STORE OR DONATE: Boho Chic

A few hippie accents still look good, but too much flower child belongs to another Decade.

Ralph Lauren, Fall 2010

KEEP USING: Ladylike bags

Bags held by their handles or slung in the crook of the elbow still exude posh glamor.  

Mulberry pink ostrich Bayswater bag

STORE OR DONATE: Logo shoulder bags 

Particularly longer strapped ones.  They look dated.  But wait some decades and they'll turn Vintage.

Coach logo shoulder bag

The main push towards modern dressing in the past decade is Eclecticism.  Mix up designers, from high-end to low-end.  Throw in some Vintage or Flea Market finds.  This drive towards individual style is perhaps the most important development in Fashion this millenium. It remains the key to Modern Dressing.

* Let's not split hairs, for those of you who love precision.  Most would insist the decade began with the year 2010 rather than 2011.  For the purposes of Fashion, we are still very early on in this decade, however you count it.

SLOPE STYLES

Some lucky folks are hitting the ski slopes this winter.  Often, regular skiwear is all you need from the time the lifts open through dinner at the Village.  However, other slopes require a little more wardrobe planning.  If you happen to be heading there, keep scrolling.

Bogner Sport Ski 2011
slope wear

A ski line enjoying a sudden wave of popularity right now is Moncler.  The French skiwear company originated in 1952 but became popular among young Italians in the '80s.  Most of us think of Moncler as synonymous with the puffy, down jacket.  (In the US, rap artists even made wearing the Sleeping Bag Look cool.)  In recent years, Moncler has collaborated with designer, Giambattista Valli, to create the Gamme Rouge collection.  

Now THIS is different (apres) ski wear!

How do you turn a sleeping bag into a couture item?

Moncler Duvet
Gamme Rouge Winter 2010

Moncler Duvet
Gamme Rouge Winter 2010

Valli seems to have figured that one out.  These might be so warm, toasty, and oh so fashionable, you forget to put your skis on.

Happy Holidays to you Stylish Ladies!

(I may not be able to blog until January)

BLACK SWAN BACKSTAGE

Every one is a-flap over Rodarte's gorgeous black swan costume ("Odile" to ballerinas) for Natalie Portman in her latest film, "Black Swan".

Natalie Portman in "Black Swan", costume by Rodarte

The costumes are beautiful  though they function more on the red carpet than in actual ballet.  Mila Kunis was quoted complaining of wardrobe malfunctions in these lovely tutus -- and they weren't even really dancing.

Real costumes have straps to keep things in place!
American Ballet Theater's Gillian Murphy and Angel Corella
in "Swan Lake"

Let's gloss over the fact that, yet again, there is a dance movie where non-dancers pretend to be graceful.   Instead, let us focus on what ballet costumes and couture have in common.  Rodarte isn't the only design label to get involved in ballet.  Jean Paul Gaultier, Isaac Mizrahi, Versace and Giorgio Armani are just a few others who have taken to ballet costume design.

It may surprise many to know that professional tutus can cost over $1,000 each.  In fact, when I needed a swan costume a few years back, I decided to see if I could do it for less with the help of a friend who is a bridal couture designer.

DIY Swan costume
photo by Lily Dong

Materials alone were staggering:

• Delicate, expensive fabrics
• High-quality tulle, beaded appliques and special materials like feathers (lots of them)
• Pre-made plain bodice with boning and pancake tutu skirt was already over $200
• Additional accents cost over $200 before labor!

beaded appliques and feathers on tulle
photo by Lily Dong

We cut and hand-sewed all these trims. Both of us toiled several hours a day over a few days.  Imagine the billing cost per hour of that at a couture house.

Now you begin to see what you are paying for.  Experienced cutters, designers, and hand finishing all add up.  In some couture ateliers, the fabric is individually hand-dyed or distressed (say, at Rodarte) before expert folding and tailoring techniques are applied.

But the finished product -- expressed with grace, line and true technique -- is well worth it.

Julie Kent of American Ballet Theater
as Odile in "Swan Lake"

MAXIMIZING MINIMALISM

I am heading for family gatherings in the tropics this holiday.  Too bad I am not a member of the Jet Set that Resort Wear was originally designed to clothe.

Packing means practical clothes that accommodate city days and nights yet can be versatile enough for island jaunts.   Luggage constraints also call for serious wardrobe editing.  I have no choice.  Simplicity is the only way to go.

(Following 4 photos from Celine Resort 2011)

Day-to-night, city or trendy resort

For style inspiration, who better to do Simple and Minimal than Phoebe Philo for Celine?  What a genius -- making simplicity utterly fashionable again.  I dig through my closet for all things minimal.  (I don't find much.)

Versatile looks in their simplicity

Love this column gown!
Goes from city party to fancy resort dinner

Minimal style is only one variable.  Fabric choice is also key for versatility.  Knit or stretch blend fabrics combat wrinkles and high maintenance steaming or ironing.  

Though not minimalist, Vionnet has neutral, relaxed dresses in their Resort collection.  The sassy draping is hip for the city, yet, it is easy enough to throw into a weekend beach bag.  You can also find budget-friendly versions of this style.  (It's harder to get away with cheap Minimalism.)

Vionnet Resort 2011

I guess the Jet Setters from days of old had their own kind of simplicity too.

The original Jet Set

(from Frances McLaughlin-Gil, Conde Nast Archives)

If Minimalism is too much for you, a little rebellion doesn't hurt.  I'm still taking tough boots and a few prints with me.

Burberry Prorsum Winter 2010
Toughen up a pretty dress with black boots

Enjoy the holidays!