MARTHA GRAHAM AND MINIMALIST COSTUMES

Today marks what would have been Martha Graham's 117th birthday.  The iconic dancer and choreographer completely changed dance in America, and after that, the world.  Modern Dance, as we think of it today, is really because she made it that way.

Martha Graham in "Lamentation"
photo by Barbara Morgan

She created her own dance vocabulary for the body.  Somehow, it always vacillated between rapture and pain.  She moved away from the theatrical backdrops of dance and exotic costumes, and instead, gave us Modern Minimalism.

Just look at all these photos, whether or not you are a dance enthusiast.  The costumes are timeless!  We can even wear all this out today.

"Martha Graham: Letter to the World"
fondly known as "The Kick"
photo by Barbara Morgan

The following image was not in high definition so I can only post it small:

Martha Graham
photo by Barbara Morgan

Happy Birthday, Martha!

RODARTE AT THE MOCA

The edgy Rodarte sisters are now equally known in the fashion and film worlds.  Following their popularity as costume designers for the "Black Swan" movie, they have collaborated with the MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) on an installation of their famed costumes for the film.



Rodarte: States of Matter from MOCA on Vimeo.

The following photos from the MOCA show the amazing costumes eerily floating in space.  Ethereal White Swans in a lit, white room.  Powerfully demented Black Swans in the dark.

This might warrant a visit to the Pacific Design Center.  The exhibition is on until June 5th, 2011.

(All images in this posting from moca.org)

For more on the "Black Swan" and "Rodarte", check my previous postings;

Rodarte on Black Swan

Black Swan Backstage

RODARTE ON "BLACK SWAN"

The Mulleavy sisters behind Rodarte commented on making the edgy, much-talked-about costumes for the movie, "Black Swan".  Known in the fashion world for their intellectual approach to design, they often appeal to the artier crowd, like (surprise) Natalie Portman.   See the New York Times' video from today:




As horror film aficionados, "Black Swan" was a natural extension of their vision.  The hand-made ballet costumes for the movie used materials like angora, spiky feathers, net, and metal to create the gothic swan images for the film.

For more on Rodarte's "Black Swan" tutus and the couture art of costume making, see the previous post: Black Swan Backstage

BLACK SWAN BACKSTAGE

Every one is a-flap over Rodarte's gorgeous black swan costume ("Odile" to ballerinas) for Natalie Portman in her latest film, "Black Swan".

Natalie Portman in "Black Swan", costume by Rodarte

The costumes are beautiful  though they function more on the red carpet than in actual ballet.  Mila Kunis was quoted complaining of wardrobe malfunctions in these lovely tutus -- and they weren't even really dancing.

Real costumes have straps to keep things in place!
American Ballet Theater's Gillian Murphy and Angel Corella
in "Swan Lake"

Let's gloss over the fact that, yet again, there is a dance movie where non-dancers pretend to be graceful.   Instead, let us focus on what ballet costumes and couture have in common.  Rodarte isn't the only design label to get involved in ballet.  Jean Paul Gaultier, Isaac Mizrahi, Versace and Giorgio Armani are just a few others who have taken to ballet costume design.

It may surprise many to know that professional tutus can cost over $1,000 each.  In fact, when I needed a swan costume a few years back, I decided to see if I could do it for less with the help of a friend who is a bridal couture designer.

DIY Swan costume
photo by Lily Dong

Materials alone were staggering:

• Delicate, expensive fabrics
• High-quality tulle, beaded appliques and special materials like feathers (lots of them)
• Pre-made plain bodice with boning and pancake tutu skirt was already over $200
• Additional accents cost over $200 before labor!

beaded appliques and feathers on tulle
photo by Lily Dong

We cut and hand-sewed all these trims. Both of us toiled several hours a day over a few days.  Imagine the billing cost per hour of that at a couture house.

Now you begin to see what you are paying for.  Experienced cutters, designers, and hand finishing all add up.  In some couture ateliers, the fabric is individually hand-dyed or distressed (say, at Rodarte) before expert folding and tailoring techniques are applied.

But the finished product -- expressed with grace, line and true technique -- is well worth it.

Julie Kent of American Ballet Theater
as Odile in "Swan Lake"